Hanoi sights for the average LP day-tripper

Sightseeing in Hanoi provides interesting insights into Vietnamese culture rather than being astonishingly beautiful or spectacular, although I’m saying this having seen other parts of Asia. Ngoc Son Temple situated in the Hoan Kim Lake in the middle of the city started my slightly confusing journey into the spiritual and religious life of the Vietnamese. From what I gather, Vietnamese are Buddhists, Taoists, Confucian (which I had never heard about before), a mixture of all as well as worshiping previous emperors. Attempts at trying to unravel all of this would require a rather long stay within Vietnam. What is obvious is the important role religion and belief has in Vietnamese society from small shrines decorated with fairy lights and lit incense found in every dwelling to the burning of money (fake money so we found out) at the start and end of a shopkeepers working day for hope and to give thanks.

The Temple of Literature was more obviously devoted to Confucius and those educated there over 700 years ago. The most interesting exhibit was the huge stones recording the names of those passing examinations carried by tortoises. Tortoises are figures of endurance and strength, one of the four symbolic animals, the others being dragon, unicorn and phoenix. Without much of a guide to go off, I think we missed out on true understanding of what the temple was all about.

The best insight into the political culture of Vietnam came from the Hanoi Hoa Lo Prison, also known as the ‘Hanoi Hilton’. Built in the 19^th Century, the museum focussed on the occupation by the French and the conditions of imprisoned American soldiers during the Vietnam war. Exhibits describe in detail how well American POWs were treated, a case of outstanding historical propaganda. That evening, we googled information on POWs during the Vietnam war, especially John McCain’s experience, painted so rosily in the museum contradicting the brutal account on an internet site reproducing parts of McCain’s autobiography. A further shining example of the contradictory nature was the name given to the prison by American POWs : Hanoi Hilton – an ironic term as conditions were so bad or, as the museum states, because the prison was just like staying at a Hilton Hotel. It’s hard to get a true picture of the reality, it would be easy to simply discount the government run museum’s account as fiction but the historian in me would like to see more source evidence and read more about it before coming to a final judgement. One conclusion I can make, the museum is a visible example of the communist regime here which is somewhat hidden to the non-Vietnamese speaking tourist behind the seemingly capitalist everyday life.

The ancient Vietnamese art form of Water Puppetry (www.thanglongwaterpuppet.org) is one of the major tourist must dos in Hanoi. The 45 minute performance in Vietnamese (we had a basic outline as to what was happening in the English programme) was entertaining but 45 minutes was enough, especially with the tiny seating space for my legs. The performance featured Vietnamese traditional music and song as well as depictions of rural life using a variety of intricate puppets dancing on the ‘water’ stage. It was worth seeing but definitely geared towards the paying visitors. I did ask our guide whether the art form was still prevalent in rural Vietnam but she was unsure; I hope a more authentic version still exists somewhere.